Frank Giglio

The Rendering of Fat…

For hundreds of years, lard, butter , and tallow were culinary staples and used in nearly every kitchen. From the professional chef to daily home maker, these animal fats were not only sustainable and in abundance, but nutrient rich and shelf stable.  Without the luxuries of imported tropical oils and delivery trucks, animal fats were the perfect solution to using what was readily available.  

However, in the early 1900’s, once the Industrial Revolution struck, the use of animal based fats seemed to slowly decrease, while vegetable based oils and shortenings took main stage in kitchens across America.  New age dietary cookbooks and misconceptions relating to fat and cholesterol shun the animal fats, but are pro “labratory” made vegetable oils, margerines, and shortenings which are said to aid in a healthy body.

In America, we tend to go a bit overboard with everything we do.  Eating is no exception.  In the last 100 years, with the addition of  highly processed foods, hormone and antibiotic fed animals, and the fast food havens across America, our health has plummeted.  Microwavable foods and quick meals to-go have taken main stage over home cooked family meals.  We have created a major health crisis and doctors seemed to have found the culprit, FAT, especially those made from animals.  So easily, doctors and corporate marketers make claims that vegetable based fats are healthier choices, but I not only wish to look at the science, I wish to spend time on sustainability and using what is around us.

As a chef, a New Englander, and a lover of animals, I wish to put aside any beliefs on the wrongs of use of animals and start looking at this from a side of sustainability.  If we are going to start “saving” the planet, the region by region, we must start using what is readily available and stop relying on the convience of imported food.

Lets take a look at fats and how they can be used sustainably and in a health giving manner.  Please take note that my are being expressed soley thru my own personal experience as well as thru the eyes of a person living in northern New England.   An ongoing attempt to consume foods in New England, I see great value in the well rounded and organically established farming system.

Here’s a chart that shows the  Lard Consumption in the United States from 1909 to 2007

Source: USDA/Economic Research Service, data last updated Feb. 27, 2009

By viewing this chart, you can clearly see that the use of lard has greatly decreased in the last 100 years.  What a shame…..

In recent years, any cooking I have done, raw or cooked has usually been done with coconut oil and or extra virgin olive oil.  It is quite obvious that neither of these two oils are grown nor produced in the north east.  If I want a vegetable based oil, the only local source that I know of is Sunflower Seed oil which is grown and produced in Vermont.  The big kicker here is that is has to be produced, usually by machines that will use mass amounts of watts and electricity or fuel to produce.  Lard is made simply by melting it in a pan over low heat. Butter, can be hand churned in wooden molds, or be processed in a food processor in a matter of minutes on minimal electricity.

My butter source is not even a 1/4 tank of gas away and is made by hand and in small batches.  Coconut oil, at least the one I am use to using is sourced from Mexico.  This means it has traveled at least 2-3000 miles in trucks to reach the distributor.  It resides on the shelves until the order is placed that placed back on a truck until it reaches my home.  From the initial coconut harvest to the time it reaches my  doorstep,  months may have gone by.  With the butter, it is being produced week to week and unless I get to it before the other neighbors do, I just might be out of luck.

Making butter from fresh cream is very easy and an excellent way to get your children involved in the kitchen.  Check out my wife, Camille’s video on making butter:

From a culinary perspective, animal fats have always reigned supreme in kitchens across the globe.  Melted butter imparts a wonderfully aromatic + nutty flavor when sauteing fish and vegetables.  For frying, lard or tallow makes for crisp and clean tasting chips and fries.  Fast food joints do exist and will not go away.  Many restaurateurs claim their new and improved vegetable oil for frying doesn’t last as long as lard or tallow, and say its aroma is less than excellent.

Most people have now gotten use to adding extra virgin olive oil to their salads or drizzle it on their steamed greens.  Perfect if you live in California or in Europe.  Again to make its way to me, its gotta travel at least 2,000 miles.  Most vegetables are fat soluable and their nutrients would be absorbed more readily with a touch of raw cream or melted butter.  For an amazing salad dressing, try blending raw cream, garlic, apple cider vinegar, dill, and a touch of sea salt.

I am certainly not trying to diss olive oil or coconut oil, but again, as a New Englander, it’s use as a dietary staple is simply impractical.  If I choose to live in Hawaii, I would be cracking coco’s daily.  Place me in Napa Valley, and olive oil will see more use.

I will put aside the need to state the fact of the health qualities of these foods I mention and simply place links for you to read as you wish.

-20 Health benefits of Butter

-Dangers of margarine and hydrogenated oils

-Is fat BAD??

-China Study says low to NO fat

-Sally Fallon, The Queen of Butter

When it comes down to the nitty gritty, moderation is best.  BUT, sustainable living to me, means using what is around you, and I feel, I am doing the best I can to do just that. Eating is a very small portion of creating a healthy body.  Community, loving relationships, compassion, and exercise, are all important factors in a well-rounded healthy body.

What feels good to you?    What makes you feel great?

Thanks for checking in,

Bless

Franky